London Fashion Week was, as usual, high energy and full of classic talent as well as some aspiring designers.
The classics like Vivienne Westwood showed her collection on day two and poured her archives out onto the runway, reworked of course. Westwood said that her new fashion collections show in Paris and they are instant classics. These classics are then later reworked for London Fashion Week where she shows the Vivienne Westwood Red Label collection. The cycle is never ending yet somehow complete.
Westwood’s Red Label collection had spunky hair that was worked up into a cyclone above the models heads or ruffled up and made into scarves. That is, when they were not wearing hats or hair wraps. The coo-coo millinery was used to enhance the street feel of the clothing.
Another artist who showed street style clothing was Henry Holland from House of Holland. His spring 2012 fashion collection was packed with mesh tops, funky suspenders, and models who looked like they knew how to wield a street weapon. Though pretty and probably not what Henry was going for the looks were a bit rough around the edges and what was meant to look like cumulus clouds, ended up looking like acid washed punk jeans. Then again, perhaps that is just what he was going for. Either way the croud at London Fashion Week swooned over the line and Henry himself.
Of course Burberry Prorsum took the cake with their pain staking collection that worked leathers, checks, and gaberdines with handcrafted beading, carving, crochet, and all things that should be appreciated because they are beautiful but also because, they take time.
This kind of thinking can only be delivered by a house that has both money and skill (since time is never available in the world of “fashion”). One of the only design houses in London that can pull that off is Burberry, and one of the only designers up to the challenge in London is, Christopher Bailey. I’m glad that Bailey is currently the head designer of Burberry of it is likely the things that take time and earn appreciation would go on the back burner to make way for consumerism and profits.
Other shows of note were:
Erdem Moralioglu’s, Erdem line which focused on light airy blue florals and beautiful silken lace dresses
Giles by Giles Deacon who insisted his collection was not to be mistaken or linked in any way to the popular movie “Black Swan” but certainly featured a full swan as a hat taxidermy style. Also it would be difficult to find more silver fabric or ostrich feathers anywhere else in London than at the Giles’ Spring 2012 show.
Mulberry with their vegetable dyed leathers and pastel infused clothing.
Pringle of Scotland with their world famous knitwear and impossibly cool pleat detailing.
Temperley London with whom Pippa Middleton attended, was partial to embroidered silks, and beaded lace numbers. Whatever draws out the royal family is a win in most books!
Topshop Unique had some very strange/cool striping going on mixed with an androgynous feel. The collection was a little lost in translation but the clothes were certainly salable to a younger audience.