A Show To Remember
Marc Jacobs has been with Louis Vuitton for the past 16 years and it’s been quite the ride for the house – from the perspective of aggressive growth and aggressive fashion. The beauty LV instills in the simplest of fabrications is limited only by their eponymous designer and his unlimited creative imagination. Of course, when a collection is immersed in a sea of black, the theme has to be so spectacular and outstanding that a very few talented members of the fashion community can truly uphold this vision. One of those was milliner Stephen Jones who created the beautiful burnt headdresses for the LV showgirls.
With head-pieces as tall as giraffe-necks and models dripping in black crystals, it could only mean one thing… Dark side Golden Nugget Dancers! I always go back to the movie directed by Paul Verhoeven (which completely disturbed me as a child…Why was I allowed to watch it?) but, the glamor and unexpected brilliance shone through in Showgirls, much like the Louis Vuitton Spring 2014 show. Well that and some Stephen Sprouse graffiti thrown in.
I have to admit the shows retro perspective had me thrown off from the beginning. In the past, the Vuitton Ready-to-wear shows were always fresh and new, an escalator is pedestrian in a mall, but fresh on a runway, a fountain is representative of a healthy community outdoors, but in a runway setting was brilliant and represented Spring in a new way. I could go on, the carousel, the clock, the elevators… all were once hip and happening, but why re-invent and reintroduce them this year all at once, if not to reminisce and celebrate the past? In my opinion (and with some obvious deductive reasoning) the stage was set for Marc’s departure. Oh, and did I mention the clock was ticking backwards?
He of course claims coincidence but I’m not so sure. Anyway more on that later. We’re here to talk fashion.
The first time I saw the Sprouse reference I was happy… and then a bit shocked. Aside from being painted strategically on a near-nude model (who had a glittery black diamond claw gripping her groin) the graffiti was a great introduction to the collection. It introduced black as a color we all love to wear and feel secure in. Even if we’re naked…I suppose.
Further into the line, I found myself looking at pieces of looser cut light-weight denim. The look of high fashion clothing imposing itself on casual fabrications is so freaking hilariously amazing and I love it! So when sparkling black diamonds (which were hand sewn onto black mesh) were paired with casual denim I kind of lost my shit. Though I liked the denim… I wonder how… some people might react… I can hear the dinner conversation now:
Insert Dream Bubble and,,,
Dita: “‘er… look Blandyn, your werkin jeans are on the inter nets”
Blandyn: “Hyuck, good one Dita nooww get me a beer and put(s) on your fancy shirt! I’m cook’in up some those possum chips you luve.”
Dita: “*Snort, Just so long as you wear those Looey Voo-Ton jeans”
Blandyn: “All right but I aint puttin on a shirt ya hear!”
Sorry… Marquis deep South dinner sequence interjection.
What they don’t realize, is the cotton for those jeans is typically farmed and milled in Italy, or France. The fabric is created by hand and inspected by the most discerning textile quality assurance team in the world. Then, Marc Jacobs chooses that fabric for a piece he designed. Finally the pattern is drafted and created as per his precise vision of what will be “in style” a year from now. Brilliant! And for the record… hill-billy denim isn’t nearly as soft as Louis Vuitton jeans. Or as flattering on Dita’s silhouette.
But seriously, the evening wear from the collection was intense and puts Britney’s song “Work B**ch” into a motivational anthem. “You want Louis Vuitton RTW? You Better Work B**ch!”
As this was actually Marc Jacobs final collection for Louis Vuitton, I have to say I am deeply saddened by the turn of events and will do another post that reflects this in a more sombre tone. I have to say the news of his departure continues to shake me up and I only hope the next head designer (whether it is Nicolas Ghesquiere or not) will live up to Jacobs’ free spirit and mindful brilliance.
Images from Style.com