New York Fashion Week Spring Summer 2013 Day 1 Recap
Today was the first day of a train of days that will end in exhaustion and fashion awe-struck-ed-ness… I’m so excited. Okay so day 1 consisted of a lot of great designers including some new ones I am writing about such as Gary Graham, and other newbies to my blog like Robert Rodriguez (Amazing!). So first up is the tried and true’s like Z Spoke by Zac Posen and I’ll quickly touch on the Escada line.
Z Spoke by Zac Posen always baffles me a little bit because the references to his ready to wear collection are almost non-existent. That doesn’t in ay way suggest the line is bad (“because it’s not!”) but the line itself is completely geared toward a younger audience and has the top trends in mind while the design and development process unfolds. Sounds obvious for a diffusion collection but you’d be surprised how many lines forget this one element and create something that is only a less expensive version of the designers mainstay collection.
Anyway, the line was fun and flirty with strong elements from the 30’s including some popping tangerine, olive green, and sapphire blue prints. Another repeating trend in this collection and one that has already emerged this season (yeah I know it’s the first day but these things happen,) is the use of a mesh material that is placed on shoulders and in cutouts along the waist. The combination of this trending material and the fun 30’s themed clothing makes for an updated silhouette and fresh new look for the market to feast on. Well done Zac! Also I LOVED the handbags! Works of art especially the clutches with the gargantuan tassels.
My only criticism was the way he shot his lookbook. Because Posen used a white background, and a ton of white garments, the lookbook only looked like lips and hair at times. Though that would make for a good ad, the lookbook should serve as a buyers guide. Not quite catalogue shots, but still a usable sales tool which I’m going to say this was not because of the white out images.
Moving to a ready-to-wear line, Escada, the cleanest cut label showing in New York this season. From the laser cut leather jackets to the perfectly stitched split tone blazer in white and nude the line is sharp. Tailored to a tee and fits like a glove. My only problem with the way the collection shows is that it is very safe. Aside from using black leather and incorporating the mesh effect (like at Z Spoke by Zac Posen) the trends they choose to use are usually a mile away from the high fashion world. REgardless you know when you buy an Escada piece you are owning a piece of timeless luxury.
Next up is Gary Graham and Robert Rodriguez who are new to me but not to all. Their designs nearly literally took my breath away when I took a super close look at the detail and workmanship that went into the collections. Gary used a medley of subtle floral prints and paired them with a lighter silk backdrop. The result, a solemn yet earthy feeling collection that was a great balance of structure and elegantly flowing elements to the pieces. When the inspiration is a graveyard, the collection takes on a macabre sense but I have to admit, that was more transparent when you looked at the styling of the models Graham used as opposed to the clothing itself.
As for the Robert Rodriguez collection, my respect was put squarely on the well tailored shoulders of his pieces. The way the dresses fit, the way his peplums were sewn on, everything was sculpted to the model he used who worked the collection B.T.W. This collection was a futuristic line that took from the baroque period and extended it’s boundaries from Rodriquez’s collections in the past by using less color but more technically savvy workmanship. I also loved the replacement of leather with a laminated raffia that looked sleek like the animal hyde but looked light and breatheable.
At the end of Day 1 of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week I can say I can’t WAIT for tomorrow! Stay Tuned!