Stephen Jones Shines at Thom Browne 2014
What is a fabric’s purpose if not to be honed to the likeness of some animalistic impression of a beast the wearer portrays in the boardroom, the betting table,… the bedroom? Whether it is a black bear with prey in mouth or a CEO making cut-throat business calls, the literal transmogrification of a textile to predatory garb was detailed beautifully at Thom Browne.
There was two different shows walking, one right after the other, aside from the fact that the head pieces (which were all created from suiting materials used throughout the presentation) were enough to steal any show. But the first half of the show was tame (or as tame as any elephant mask wearing man could seem) and then there was the latter half where the beasts came out of the shadows and hungered for the hunt. The indulgent silhouettes and unlikely fabrications of the last 20 looks were enough to anger most fashion neophytes and of course enrage anyone who hasn’t ever seen a Thom Browne menswear collection to date.
While slim waists are typically sought after and considered the fashionable norm, Thom went ahead and defied convention by ballooning the body to hilarious proportions. When slim cut chino’s dominate runways in Italy and France, the Fall 2014 look needed a “Wide Load” sign on the back. Browne followed proportions as much as any of the rules of fashion when it comes to this, or any of his other collections… AKA he didn’t, but maybe that’s why we love him (?). This rebellious fashion delinquent created delirious dreamscapes rivaling the surrealism from the likes of Salvador Dali. But wait… Shouldn’t we be drooling over sharp suiting and only the very best bespoke practices? Then again… Why?
Why can’t I wear a balloon suit and let my freak flag fly? I think it’s beautiful and weaves a tale of a no-nonsense yacht sailing warrior who doesn’t give two shits what you think of his fashion sense yet loves it just the same. Personal tastes and all.
I feel that Thom is developing a mixed fan base (fashionistas/o’s, and those that yearn for sharp contemporary suiting) and is catering to both… in the most obvious way possible – which is to have two shows. But… for expenses he just shows them one after another… you understand.
Images by Thom Browne