The stage was set and from the moment one walked into the room, there was no question that this season was broken-down opera chic. The venue was dripping in Bordeaux red quilted velvet, with romantic soft lighting. Always the gracious hosts, Champagne was served by models in white tux like outfits to guests as they where seated. Pavarotti bellowed Verdi (including La donna e’ mobile from Rigoletto) through the room ( Giuseppe Verdi was Dolce and Gabbana’s muse this season) , that was aptly descried as: “ opera night in Palermo, circa 1910, with all the Sicilian boys in their worn Sunday best and the local aristos cramming the balconies in their faded finery”.
“It’s not escape, it’s a dream,” said Stefano Gabbana before the show, although escape and dream actually blended effortlessly in the gilded spectacular that he and Domenico Dolce created.
With a sense of nostalgia a hint of patriotism the men’s fall 2012 ready-to-wear collection came to life. Lovingly referred to as their personal “hymn to Italy,” one of the first inspirations was a bold vintage cape that belonged to Dolce’s father…”We didn’t look at a book or a movie for inspiration,” said Gabbana. “It was all about family.” The models step seemed hastened by Pavarotti blasting out over the runway. It was enough to put everyone in the mood for some dramatic looks.
Velvet lapels with matching buttons graced fitted jackets with fine piping; followed by billowing cape-style coats that playfully danced about the models as they moved down the catwalk. Braided gold and filigree embroidery found their way onto drop-crotch trousers, the eclectic capes, shearling jackets, and coats. Printed silky pajama’s glided around from under heavenly embroidered jackets, it was, in-fact, some what reminiscent of the 1800 century inspired 2006 collection….though it stood very well on its own.
In classic Dolce and Gabbana style, there was a balance to the collection through the use of some rough, distressed outerwear pieces with a bulkier,more…”everyday/at home” feel (which is right on point for some major trends forming for fall 2012).
A final quote to rap up the review:
“The clothes have to have a history — it’s not about being retro, but they have to have had their own life. It’s about memories, familiarity — it’s comforting,” said Dolce. “The new generations want it, because novelty can be scary.”