The Fall 2013 London Men’s Shows Have Begun
Day one of the London Collections was a magnificent display of wool, leather, and manly men all over the place. Of course the style in London is always incredibly sharp like Savile Row, bold like Richmond St, and as rich as Kensington… or… as we’ve seen today from Meadham Kirchhoff, Dumpsterville. I’ll start with the Meadham Kirchoff collection because unlike the others, their beauty was extremely different.
So… I know what you’re thinking What’s with the garbage? Well according to Style.com the garbage is their way of saying goodbye to 2012 as it was a terrible year for the design duo. I think the collection could have done well without it but that’s why I’m not a designer. The three looks above were my favorite and I am in love with the embroidery on mustard. It’s vintage but updated with the regal turquoise placed by hand on contemporary jackets. I swooned when I saw the tight tweets they used (seen above in grey). But more than the textile, I love the way the loose cut culottes have a high cinched waist wrapped with a oversized belt in the same material. The styling is fantastic.
Here are another couple looks that I have to say remind me of a the worst day of my life. No date in particular but I imagine this is what it would resemble. socks with sandals, and not just any sandal… they are like Birkenstocks! Then there is this wrinkly skirt on this really large pale fellow and his side kick at half mast who appears to be the brains of the operation and they want to give you a couple of fists where it hurts… Wait! I think I saw these two on the Flintstones!
Moving along to a more traditionally good looking line, Topman launched its collection today and the show was a hit in my books. I fell for the cropped parkas, light palate, and man skirt in red! Or was it a kilt? Regardless… it looked awesome and quite masculine. I think this is a really cool moment in history. A cothing line as readily available as Diesel has made a skirt for men and intends to put it out there for all men to see. I think it’s brilliant and really balances the field for mainstream designers to promote men wearing unbifurcated bottoms.
Richard Nicoll was in charge of his menswear pieces as they dashed across the runway in a mix of greyed out neutrals. The pieces looked soft to the touch but the thing I most appreciated about the Nicoll brand this season was the way he turned feminine botanicals into viable menswear pieces. Well, botanicals may be too floral a word to use but the tightly compacted print with petal shaped dollops seems floral enough to me. Lastly I really liked the pants. Let’s face it… I have bigger legs. Hockey and what not (Cheerleading) so I can definitely appreciate a looser legged trouser.
MAN was full of surprises including the apt ability to successfully combine Blue and Yellow together so expertly in a suiting look but moreover the knack for millinery made to look like planks of wood pieced together to resemble… well… I’m not really sure. But it brought me back to building a tree fort with my older brother and that’s exactly how mine looked compared to his elaborate castle.
The thing I most appreciated about the collection in it’s entirety was that is had elements of realism in amidst the fantasy and wonder. My wooden mess of a fort hat goes off to you Craig Green who was a first year showing at the MAN fashion show which is created to show off new talent and introduce them to the world of buyers and the media.
“That’s proper…” “That’s Proper…” is what I kept repeating while watching the Lou Dalton collection early Monday morning. Analogous color blocking worked in the assortment’s favor as navy patch pockets and charcoal ticket flap pockets stood out on an otherwise standard double breasted suit. The other detail I really enjoyed was when similarly finished t-shirts were worn under suits creating a refined outfit while coming across incredibly comfortable. This show was as golden as the tips of the shoes and as tight as the perfectly tailored suiting.
The full schedule for day one of London Collections: Men is below:
09:00 – 10:00 Goodwood Sports & Racing by Belstaff W1 SPN
10:00 Lou Dalton The Hospital Club: Show Space FF LIVE
10:00 – 12:00 Orlebar Brown WC2: 7a Langley Street SPN
10:00 – 12:00 Bally Everest Anniversary Event See Invitation SPN
11:00 – 12:30 John Smedley WC2: 79 Endell Street SPN
12:00 Topman Design Topman Show Space
13:00 Lee Roach The Hospital Club: Show Space NM LIVE
14:00 CP Company W1 SPN
15:00 MAN Topman Show Space
15:00 – 17:00 Hentsch Man WC2: Monmouth Street SPN
16:00 Mr Start The Hospital Club: Show Space LIVE
16:00 – 18:00 Hunter Gather W1 SPN
16:30 – 18:30 Fashion East Menswear Installations SW1 SPN
16:30 – 17:30 Meadham Kirchhoff (Men’s) SW1 SPN
17:30 Richard Nicoll (Men’s) BFC Show Space
18:30 Hackett London EC4 LIVE
19:30 London Collections: Men Launch event Private Invitation Only
20:30 Alfred Dunhill Private Invitation Only
21.00 Tommy Hilfiger & Esquire Event Private Invitation Only
21.30 Pretty Green Presents Private Invitation Only