Louis Vuitton Fall 2012 Menswear, RTW Paris Fashion Week:
There is nothing more elegant than layered fabrics each with it’s own characteristics, color, texture, properties. When an outfit is pieced together at Louis Vuitton, the man in the suit becomes a fully expressed and actualized human with needs, wants, passions, and strength all as transparent and obvious his horn button on his double breasted cashmere coat. He is a Louis Vuitton man.
A while back there were rumors swirling about and meeting taking place to get Marc Jacobs to go to Christian Dior. We at Fashion Collection canot be happier that this didn’t follow through. Not that he would have done a poor job at Dior, but then the designer of the men’s collection, Kim Jones, would have likely been relocated as well meaning that he would not have been able to produced the fashion in which it was produced, not styled in the exact way it was, and therefore… less than what it was. The Fall 2012 Louis Vuitton collection for men is transcendent of negative criticisms because it has introduced a new form of fashion, a new genre. Rebellious Sartorial Brilliance.
This collection’s focal point (unlike most), starts with the shoes and their mirrored metal topped toe caps, quarters, and occasionally eyelet portions of the shoes. The last time this was done was by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen last Fall 2011 but this is literally creating new parts to the anatomy of the shoe. But metal isn’t the only new material added to the Louis Vuitton shoes, fur was one of the main materials used in the overall shoe design. The fur was prepared many ways, one of which was with the Swakara method which creates a rolling soft look. Another preparation method was by shearing the fur creating a consistent length of hair that lays uniformly. Kim Jones also used a washed out looking crocodile skin in grey and light blue.
The Swakara patented method of fur rolling was used in the bags and gloves as well creating a streamlined look of very luxurious accessories. Another new addition was the jewelry. There were long sharp arrow looking earrings that appeared to go through the upper rim of the ear called a helix piercing and it looked very rough and rugged compared to the impeccable tailoring that was on the models. The harpoon type jewelry was also stuck through hats, ties, and jacket lapels often with a dyed feather attached.
Warm browns were used throughout the collection on cashmere pants, wool checkered suits, crocodile bomber jackets, and knitted turtlenecks. Another complimenting color that was used frequently was navy. Navy pinstriped pants, shimmering nylon jackets, and silk blend suits. There was also a monk type wrap jacket in soft blue that was the only one of its kind but added a meditative feeling to the collection.
Most of the suits were three piece suits but the vests were all wrap style vests that could be seen from the neck to the bottom of the gorge of the jacket. They added a professionalism to the outfit in a clean respectful way as opposed to a stuffy boardroom feeling. The other piece that added to the top of the suits and shirts was the addition of an ascot. Though it was an exceptionally thin piece of fabric, it had a print on it which really brought it to focus while not being too much.
Lots of velvet, heaps of material with a sheen, and plenty of separates on the runway which is not common for Vuitton. But in spite of it’s somewhat non-traditional nature this fashion collection was one of the best that Kim Jones has produced and one that will not soon be forgotten.