Mugler Men’s Spring Summer 2013
When someone says the phrase “a man’s suit” a particular picture comes to mind, this is not the case for Creacitive Director Nicola Formichetti for Mugler. When Nicola picks up a sketching implement, the outcome is avant garde, original, and even blasphemous. The lapel is one of the most important factors on a gentleman’s suit coat and to alter that is almost as shocking as getting rid of the pant of the suit and replacing them with short shorts… which he did.
The line has evolved so much in the three seasons that when you look back it seems like the menswear collection has not only swapped out designers, but brand identity. And perhaps that is exactly why the house hired Formichetti? All good things come to an end and the collection was obviously looking for a complete change of direction because that is what they got, and Mugler is better for it.
A suit jacket without a collar is surprising but seeing the jacket with a collar underneath, wrapped around the models neck and clipped to the front by a single button leaving much of the chest exposed is pushing the envelope of menswear in a not-so-subtle way. Nicola has infused his love of party into the hemlines of his shorts that have a refined daisy duke pocket lining popping out the bottoms. “Refined” because the pocket lining is made from the same material that the suit is creating a evening version of a promiscuous beach short. Who wears short shorts? The Men of Mugler wear short shorts.
Aside from the shorts The brand also used cut outs along the necklines and fabulous metallic fabrics which are a huge trend for men for Spring 2013. The shine was seen in coral, opalescent, and oil slick black which was probably the most masculine part of the collection besides the models. Even after all the nearly costume-like fashion, I still really liked the collection and enjoy that menswear is branching out and breaking into new undiscovered territories. Who knows, perhaps next season the men will all be wearing skirts and dresses…