Paris fashion week was a harsh wake-up call for men’s silhouettes and a slap in the face for anyone still wearing all black and thinking it’ll pass for fashionable. The beatnik days are over and the new cool is color.
Givenchy is the most prominent collection that has embraced the color era by printing birds of paradise on almost every piece in the collection from pants to shirts, shorts, jackets, and every accessory imaginable. When there wasn’t a kaleidoscope of paradise the pieces were pistachio green, stark white, or blush pink. Head designer Riccardo Tisci set free the male thigh by incorporating men’s skirts that were really a cross between a kilt and an above the knee A-line skirt. Not sure if that will topple the sales charts but it may show up in the sale section of Bergdorf or Saks.
Paul Smith who is known for his eponymous stripe mangled the sleek linear feel and broke out into major color blocking for the purpose of thrusting color onto the models and the buyers come spring 2012. The collection was Smith’s most inventive and was still able to hang on to tradition of the Paul Smith label.
While Paul was hanging onto tradition Mugler was busy obliterating it. Obviously falling into the category of breaking the mold, this season Formichetti created menswear that was from another planet in that it had gold armor on the body, arms and head. Though the effect was interesting to look at, the sales of the Mugler collection will surely be affected. Though Nicola Formichetti is providing food for fashionistas and the media in general, Formichetti will have to make the clothing the way he envisions it but (as Tyra always says) pull it back.