Viktor & Rolf Men’s Fall/Winter 2011: This season’s Viktor & Rolf show was one of mixed feelings. I am a huge fan of Viktor & Rolf. I fell in love when I watched their women’s spring/summer 2010 collection, “Cutting Edge Couture”. I literally sat with my mouth hanging open. It is a very rare moment where this Italian mouth has nothing to say but, on that fabulous day I was speechless. The structure, the technique, and the dazzling imagination of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have, time after time, kept me speechless.
I do have to admit that this is the first men’s collection from this Amsterdam born design house that I have looked at with great attention to detail. I loved, loved, loved some pieces and their were other looks that left me wondering. The first two pieces on the runway very much had me feeling the latter. The grey, plain, Jane (or in this case James) sweat suit missed the mark and I instantly went from a girl on the edge of my seat to one raising her eyebrows. As the show went in I crept closer and closer to the edge of my seat. The structured Viktor & Rolf started to sparkle through. Wonderful suits, wonderful textures, wonderful prints and wonderful colors produced such fun mélanges.
One of my favorite concepts within this collection was the unexpected layering. The leather coats over a beautiful suit jacket gave this collection an edge that was so attractive.
The mixing of textures was unforgettable. The wool, and the knit, and the leather all in one garment…it was like the perfect dirty martini, there was bite until the very end. Whether it was a wool jacket with quilted, leather sleeves, a sweater that had a little bit of everything, it was simply perfect.
So although this show started out with blinding question marks, I left feeling like all of my senses were fashionably stimulated (and it wasn’t the presence of male models). I remain a fan of the fantastic duo, keep it coming Viktor & Rolf.
Contributor: Ashely Senft